Crane Flies Damage Turf For Months

Since the European crane fly immigrated to Western Washington, turf and pastures have been providing free lunches every spring in larger and larger parts of the state.

The adults look a lot like very large mosquitoes, and their habit of congregating by the thousands on the sides of houses in late summer has caused some excitement (even though adult crane flies don't bite or sting.

Their Night Life Starts When Young

The worm (or larval) stage of this insect feeds from the first day it hatches. Their growth is rapid in the spring, and this is when most turf damage occurs. The young larvae seem to prefer green leaves and do most of their feeding at night. Feeding does continue during the day as they seek cover in and under the thatch and feed on the roots and thatch itself. Grass blades are often severed at the root crown.

Months Of Preparation For The Big Night

Crane flies winter as immature larvae in the soil. They may stay at this level of development for as much as 4 months. As the temperatures increase in spring, the larvae begin feeding again, and this is when one of the periods of the rapid growth occurs. On warm, moist nights and dark days, they'll feed on the surface, but generally stay within the top 1'' of the turf.

During April, the larvae go through their heaviest feeding period until they reach maturity. They then go into an extended period of inactivity. During late August and early September, the larvae quickly pupate, emerge as adults, mate and lay eggs for the next generation. A typical female crane fly adult emerges, mates, and lays all her eggs in a single night (whew!). She then lives for only 4 or 5 days. Eggs hatch in 11 to 15 days and larvae feed ravenously for the next two months, during their second period of rapid growth.

How Many Is Too Many?

Determining if there is a damaging population has been done a number of different ways. Digging up a number of areas of about 1 square foot and from 1'' to 2'' deep and counting the number of pupae is the most straight-forward. Various studies indicate that on healthy turf any population over about 20 to 25 per square foot indicates a control application should be considered. The best control can be achieved during the larval (or worm) stage between January and March.

Remember:

• The crane fly larvae spend 11 months getting ready for a one night fling.
• More than 20 or 25 pupating larvae per square foot in March usually indicate the need for a treatment.
• Spring and fall are the two periods of rapid growth and heavy feeding.
If you're concerned about the crane fly, give us a call. At When Nature Calls, we're always happy to take a closer look for you.

Fleas And Ticks: Simple Nuisance Or Health Hazard?

There's just no nice way to say it. Fleas and ticks are parasites with a taste for human blood. They'll work on your pets too, of course, if you and your family aren't handy. These tiny insects survive by taking the blood of their hosts through their piercing, sucking mouth parts. This is usually painful and always uncomfortable, which makes these buggers bad enough. But sometimes, they give something back in the form of infectious diseases. And this is what can make them downright dangerous.

Ixodes scapularis, the black-legged or deer tick, has four life stages. Shown here are the larva, nymph, and both adult sexes.

This insect is a carrier of Lyme Disease

Where They Are

Ticks are usually associated with wooded areas, but can be carried by woodland hosts a good distance from their natural home.

Fleas are especially difficult because problems in many parts of the country. As long as an appropriate host or carrier is handy, ticks can find their way onto your property even when there are no wooded areas nearby. Fleas are especially difficult because they can survive a long time separated from a host. They can lay in wait patiently for their next host in the grass or carpets. Also, their eggs, which can be found in animal pen litter, carpets, and even the cracks in hardwood floors, are not affected by control materials. What needs to be done Its not much fun, but controlling an active flea infestation requires several complete efforts, inside and outside at the same time.

Treating the Problem is A Problem

Neither indoor nor outdoor treatments alone will solve a flea problem, since the fleas will simply migrate from one to the other after the control period. And the process needs to be repeated, since flea eggs are not controlled and another generation will quickly appear after your initial treatment. Even when you treat the lawn, the house and the pets in the proper sequence, it’s not a permanent fix. If your pet picks up new fleas, the whole process can begin again. On the other hand, efforts to prevent flea and tick problems can be done outdoors by repeated treatments of your lawn, property perimeter and foundation areas. Any stray parasites that happen on to your property can be managed in this way.

Protecting Your Family

Because these insects are more than a simple aggravation, you should react quickly if you suspect or know you have either fleas or ticks on or around your property.

Remember:

• Fleas and ticks can consume many times their own weight in blood taken from their host.
• Both types of insects can carry and transmit a variety of diseases when they puncture the skin.
• Control of fleas must be a comprehensive effort: inside, outside and on pets.
• Because eggs are not affected by controls, repeated treatments are always needed for complete control.

Contact When Nature Calls for more information.

How Chinch Bugs Cover Their Tracks

This insect is a small (1/6'') sucking bug that causes brown patches of grass as a result of its feeding.

Young chinch bugs do the worst damage by piercing the cells of the grass blades and sucking the sap. The blades that are attacked turn yellow, then brown, and then they die.

When a lawn gets infected with chinch bugs, it looks like its suffering from lack of fertilizer. There are usually a lot of brown grass blades mixed in with healthy ones. As more chinch bugs hatch out, the areas get larger and the dead areas expand. Turf in full sun and on slopes is usually hardest hit. Chinch bugs are not picky eaters. Almost any turf menu looks good to them. Bluegrass, fescues, bentgrass, zoysia grass and St. Augustine can all be killed by this small but active insect.

Once awake, these guys stay busy all summer

After spending the winter in protected areas, adult chinch bugs feed a little in spring and then mate. The first generation begins hatching in late May.

The young (or nymphs) are only half the size of a pinhead. They are red with a white band across the back. As they mature, young chinch bugs shed their skin four times. By early August, nymphs of the second generation begin to appear from eggs laid in late July. Depending on the season and the weather there can be either one or more generations per year.

Finding the little buggers is tricky too

These insects are sensitive to light, and will scurry when exposed to sun. To check for chinch bugs, we go to an area we suspect and simply part the turf with both hands to expose the surface of the thatch. Because the chinch bugs are so small, we're looking for their movement as they burrow into the thatch. We normally check several areas to determine how serious the infestation is. Don't assume brown grass in summer is just from heat and dryness, you may be seeing the damage of chinch bugs.

Remember:

• Chinch bugs are most damaging during July and August.
• They suck sap from the cells of the grass eventually killing large areas of turf.
• Chinch bug damage is easy to confuse with heat stress. It’s important to check the lawn.
• If you think you're seeing signs of chinch bugs, give us a call. We'll be happy to take a closer look for you.

Greenbug Have Gained A Taste For Turf

As a homeowner, you probably think of aphids as pests that attack your roses and ornamentals. But during the past 25 years a variation of these small insects has shown up and become a serious lawn pest, especially on Kentucky bluegrass. Greenbug that attack turf are a little smaller than other types of aphids -- they measure only 1/16-inch when full grown. But these pests have an appetite that just can't be satisfied. Once in your lawn, these tiny insects pierce and suck the juices from grass blades. Worse yet, while they eat, they inject a toxic saliva that kills the plants cells and causes yellow and orange spotting. The toxin attacks the root system, and eventually causes your grass to die.

Population Explosion Makes Control Tough

Greenbug are hard to eliminate because they have short, overlapping life cycles and they produce many generations within a season. In fact, a female Greenbug aphid can give birth to as many as 60 young. These young, in turn, are mature enough to produce another generation within 7 to 10 days!

Knowing The Damage Signs

Greenbug usually attack turf underneath shade trees, although they can infest parts of your lawn in sunny, open areas too. When the population is small, grass that is infected becomes slightly yellow. As the number of insects grows, the grass turns burnt orange. By this time there may be as many as 30 aphids or more on a single blade of grass. The Greenbug move in waves from dead turf to living grass areas.

Controlling Greenbug Aphids

To eliminate these pests, insect controls must be applied on the infected grass and surrounding areas. Because Greenbug have learned to withstand many common insect controls, we may have to do follow up treatments.

Discovering and treating these insects early is important for reducing the amount of damage to your lawn.

If you notice an area of your lawn that appears to have aphids or other insects, contact us immediately.

Boxelder bugs are more of a nuisance than a damaging insect. They feed on many different plants, but their favorite source of food is the seedpods of the female Boxelder tree. They will feed on the sap of maples, ash, and other shade trees, but do not cause significant damage.

They become a nuisance in the late summer and early fall when they congregate on the south sides of buildings, rocks, or trees. The bugs are in the process of locating a hiding place for the winter. During this random search, they often end up inside of houses. They will gain entry through cracks in the foundation or siding, gaps along the windows, or any other small openings they find.

Prevention seems to be the best defense against these annoying insects.

If you have had a problem with Boxelder bugs in the past, now would be a good time to plug up the holes and chalk any cracks. If they do get inside, most of the normal, ready-to-use, home insect sprays will not effect them. It is best to use a vacuum to 'clean' them up. Outside, a soap solution of 5 tablespoons of liquid detergent in one gallon of water will effectively control them. You may need to re-spray a couple of times over several days if they are a major problem.

You can also spray dursban or diazinon at the foundation to help prevent their entry into the house.

Be sure to read and follow all label directions before using any pest control product.

When in doubt, contact your When Nature Calls Neighborhood Lawn Care Professional.

More Than You Really Want To Know Department
• Boxelder Bug Control - North Dakota State University Extension Service
• KIWIFRUIT/BOXELDER BUG - University of California
• Boxelder Bug - Ohio State University Extension Factsheet

We were working in the lab late one night. The year was 1979. We had spent countless hours searching through all the books we had on aphids. This tiny little sucking insect had hundreds of relatives. There is the wooly aphid, the greenbug aphid, the balsam twig aphid, the California laurel aphid, the four-spotted hawthorn aphid; the list goes on and on. In all our books and in all our experience, we could not locate the new guy on the block. This one seemed to favor the tips of honeysuckle, particularly the variety known as zabeli. This is a major plant in Northern Illinois as well as many parts of the country. So far, it had only been found in suburbs on the northwest side of Chicago. Our investigation of the little fellow and its feeding habits showed that it preferred the newest growth on the bush. As it sucked the life juices from those tender leaves, it left a telltale streak of red through the leaf itself. It would not stop its unabated desire for plant fluids until it had caused the leaf to wither and die. Oh, when will the madness end!

As I slowly drifted into a semi-conscious state, I dreamed one of those half-awake, half-asleep dreams of bizarre shapes and misshapen identities. I saw a giant aphid speaking to me in some foreign language. I couldn’t make it out, but sounded like Russian. I was startled out of my dream state by a scream from down the hall, just as it was about to puncture me with its giant proboscis. I nearly fell out of my chair. I was able to grab the desk in front of me to keep from falling. Into my office came one of our graduate assistants, screaming, "I found it! I found it!" Jumping to my feet, I cruelly asked him why he was yelling. He showed me a picture of our evil enemy, its tiny frame blown-up to obscene proportions by the close-up lens. I was taken back by the recent memory of my dream and a shutter went up my spine. The graduate assistant kept repeating, "This is it! This is it!" I gathered myself together and looked down at the description of the aphid. I gasped as I saw that the description was not in English. I rubbed my eyes and peered down at the writing. It was Russian! We were dealing with a Russian aphid - Hyadaphis tataricae!

The next thing I remember was that I was looking up at the graduate assistant. He was standing over me, asking me if I was all right. He told me that I started shaking as I looked at the picture, that my eyes rolled back, and I collapsed to the floor. I just couldn’t believe my eyes. He had discovered our quarry in a book that we had on insects from around the world. It all made sense now. The aphid had somehow become lodged into an airplane that had arrived from Russia or the surrounding area. I deduced that it was blown into the landscape plants of the towns that are next to O’Hare field in Chicago. This is why our first reports of the infestation came from that area. But, it didn’t explain my dream. I don’t think I will ever be able to explain the Russian-speaking aphid.

The story came from imagination, but the facts are true. The honeysuckle or Russian aphid is an actual insect and the theory behind its entry into the U.S. is as was in the story. The first reports did came from the towns that surround O’Hare field. The insect has migrated and is causing damage to honeysuckle in the north half of the state of Illinois. The aphids feed on the youngest leaves, sucking the plant juice from the leaves and killing them. The result of this is the formation of short lateral shoots from the end of the branch. As the aphids kill these, the process continues until the branch ends resemble ‘witches brooms.’ Chemical control can be effective if spraying starts in mid-May and continues every three to four weeks until damage stops. This normally occurs by late July or early August. Planting varieties of honeysuckle that are resistant to the insect is another good method of control. Remove and discard the ‘witches broom’ damage from the previous year. It is also a good idea to keep the plant in good health through good watering and fertilization practices. It is a very difficult insect to control and it can cause nightmares for some people.

It is best to use a combination of control methods. Slugs and snails need high humidity to survive. Reduce their population by trying to manage their living conditions. As you space the plants in your garden, leave enough room to allow good airflow between them. This will reduce the moisture in the area and reduce the slug and snail habitat. Selectively prune plants that are holding in moisture. Mulches and other organic materials are beneficial around plantings because it holds in moisture. If you are having a problem slugs or snails though, you may wish to reduce or eliminate the mulch. It can increase humidity and provide daytime hiding places for the slugs and snails. You will have to be the judge of which is the bigger problem, plant damage from slugs and/or snails or moisture loss from the soil because of a lack of mulch. It is also a good idea to remove other forms of organic matter that can become a home for them. Over-ripe fruit, especially strawberries, or leaf clutter from falling leaves are the perfect habitats for slugs and snails. Keep fruit picked and leaves cleaned up to avoid this situation.

There are several commercially available molluscisides. These are sold as Bug-Geta, Deadline and Corry’s Slug and Snail Death. The active ingredient, metaldehyde, is labeled for garden use. There is also a product called Mesurol, but it is labeled for ornamental plantings and not for garden use. Metaldehyde is an irritant. When the slug or snail either has ingested or been exposed to the product, an intense irritation occurs. The natural reaction to the irritation by the slug or snail is to produce large amounts of mucus. It will eventually die from the loss of moisture. Take special care when using this or any pest control product and always read the label directions. Sunlight will rapidly breakdown metaldehyde, therefore it is best to apply it in the late afternoon or early evening. In addition, slugs and snails can recover from the effects of the material, so avoid watering before or after the treatment.

Salt and wood ashes have some chilling effects on snails and slugs. Those products really are not good for the garden, so it is not advisable to use them. Using copper strips as a barrier against snails and slugs is highly effective. The copper apparently reacts with the mucus, creating an electrical charge, which gives them a "hot belly." Other barriers, such as diatomaceous earth, also are mildly effective. Home made traps of old fruit rinds or crumpled newspapers will attract many of the creatures as they seek refuge from the sunlight. Place the fruit rind or moistened crumpled newspaper in the area in the evening. The next morning, you can either throw the ‘trap’ away, or you can shake it out on the ground and do the "slimy slug stomp."

 

Selective pruning can control minor infestations of European pine sawfly larvae. If the larvae are small (1/8 to1/4 inch in length), then summer horticultural oils or insecticidal soaps can be used. Older larvae will need to be controlled using an insect control spray using carbaryl (Sevin) or similar type of material. Remember -always read and follow all label directions. If damaged had occurred the previous year, check for small brown spots on the needles from the egg-laying activities of the female. The spots will be on last year's growth. Inspect the tree for the tiny larvae in early spring (early to mid April).

The European pine sawfly larvae will rear-up in unison when disturbed. It is a fascinating sight to see the little green 'soldiers' all come to attention when one is threatened or touched. It is most likely a reaction to scare away a predator, such as a bird or parasitic insect. The quick response would appear to be threatening and would probably frighten most any attacker. It almost looks like the branch has come alive.

There are several other pine sawfly larvae that will do damage that is more extensive. The white pine sawfly hatches later in the year and will feed on both the new and old growth. It will feed on many of the same trees as the European pine sawfly. The white pine sawfly larvae are dark-colored and have rows of orange-yellow spots down its sides. It also has a black head. While the European pine sawfly has one generation, the white pine sawfly has two.

The red-headed pine sawfly will feed on the same pines as the other two, but will also attack the larch and the Norway spruce. It has a yellow body, a red head, and six rows of black spots along the length of its body. These destructive feeders are active in mid to late summer and have one generation per year.

Good scouting of your landscape plants and a common-sense approach to pest control will help keep these pests from doing extensive damage. Take time to inspect the plants in your landscape to inspect for insect and disease activity. Look for damage from last year and anticipate the same problems again this year. Be prepared and treat the problems early so your plants will not suffer from pine sawfly or many of the other pests that inhabit your landscape.

Pine Sawfly Larva

• European Pine Sawfly
• Recovery of Scots Pine after Sawfly Defoliation
• Wheat Stem Sawfly
• Redheaded Pine Sawfly
• Wood Wasps and Horntails
• Horntail Wasps in New Homes

 

Cottony Maple Scale [University of Minnesota]

The cause of this annoyance is a tiny insect known as Cottony Maple Scale. This insect is active throughout the United States and attacks many shade trees and shrubs, but it is primarily found on soft Maples and Lindens.

There are many types of scale insects and several of those produce a white cotton-like mass. Scale insects are identified by a hard shell that protects them from predators and the weather. The female passes the winter as a small, brown scale less than 1/8th of an inch long. They attach themselves to the bark of small branches and twigs. In the spring, as soon as the sap of the tree starts to flow, the female grows rapidly and begins to deposit her eggs in the cottony mass of wax that she secretes under her protective scale cover. So much wax is secreted that the scale will rise off the branch and the female will be pushed from her protective shell. The cottony mass resembles popcorn and, if the population is high, the ‘kernels’ will line-up along the branches and twigs. The female will deposit 1500 to 3000 eggs before she dies.

The eggs hatch in June and July or, according to Don Orton, author of a book on phenology titled, "Coincide" (Plantsmen’s Publications), when "Hills-of-Snow" Hydrangea are blooming. The small "crawlers" move to the underside of the leaves of the tree, attach themselves along the midrib or veins of the leaf, and proceed to suck-up the sap. The feeding results in yellowed leaves and a weak-looking tree. The crawlers cannot fully digest the sap and excrete the excess in a fluid called "honey dew." The ‘honey dew’ will drip on to anything below and cover it with a sticky fluid. Sooty Mold will often develop in the fluid. This will turn any item underneath a blackish color and is difficult to remove. The tree may become weak if the infestation is severe and repeats for several years. The weakened tree is more susceptible to attacks from bark beetles or other boring insects.

Mating occurs when the crawlers mature in August or September. The males emerge as small winged individuals that have non-feeding mouthparts. They will mate and die within one or two days. After mating, the females will crawl back to the branches and twigs of the tree where they will spend the winter. They will produce a hard shell to protect themselves during that time.

An application of dormant oil in the late winter/early spring will help to control the over-wintering females. Damage may result on certain plants when sprayed with dormant oil, so it is important to read and follow all label directions. Several predacious insects feed on different stages of the Cottony Maple Scale. Many wasp and fly parasites are known to feed on the mature females.

Courtesy Florida Agricultural Information

Retrieval System (FAIRS) The Twice-Stabbed Lady Beetle (named for the two striking red spots against a jet black shell) is a major predator of all stages of the Cottony Maple Scale. The female will adjust her egg production to the population of the Cottony Maple Scale. Since the Twice-Stabbed Lady Beetle is so efficient in controlling the scale population, it is usually not necessary to spray for the crawlers. Many products that are used to control the crawlers will also control the predators that feed on them.

Dormant oil applications are the best defense against future outbreaks of the Cottony Maple Scale. Once again, please read and follow all label directions of any pest control product that you use.

Consider hiring a professional, licensed tree spraying company to offer the proper advice, products, knowledge, and timing to control Cottony Maple Scale or many other landscape problems.

Earwigs – They’re Ugly and I Just Don’t Like Them


There are all sorts of things we do not like. It may be a type of music, a certain movie, or some kind of food. Some people do not like insects, such as the situation with this article on Earwigs. This insect is a beneficial part of the garden environment, but has received a ‘bum’ rap because of some old folk tales. Here's out how they received their name and the advantages of this member of the insect world.

If earwigs have a bad reputation it's unjust, and unearned. It may have started in Europe, their place of origin. The unconfirmed tale is that an earwig would enter the ear of a sleeping person and bore its way it the unsuspecting person’s brain. Hollywood movies have added to the yarn by using a similar type of creature for the purpose of torture and horror. There is absolutely no truth to the tale. The most believable explanation I could find as to the why the story began come from a book titled, "Common-Sense Pest Control" by William Olkowski, Sheila Daar, and Helga Olkowski — published by The Tauton Press. The authors explain that the name earwig came from the old Anglo Saxon word "earwicga" which translates to "ear creature." They also state that, "…in nearly all European languages the name for earwig suggests a connection with the ear." They postulate that at one time, people slept on the dirt. It could be possible, but improbable, that a lonely earwig made its way into the ear of some person, looking for a warm place to spend the day. It is a good explanation, but one thing is true — earwigs are very ugly.

Earwigs are, however ugly, more beneficial than they are destructive. While some species will feed on plants or ripe fruit, they mostly feed on other insects or decaying vegetation. Their appearance is made threatening by the long pinchers on their posterior. These are actually used to defend against predators. The pinchers may look menacing, but they will not harm people. The female lays her eggs in the top couple of inches of soil. She is one of the few insects that tends to her eggs, gathering them up if they get scattered. She also defends her young for the first couple of weeks of their life. Babies only a mother could love.

Earwigs may enter homes looking for food or a place to hide. They may be a pest, but they are not a threat. If you do find them, use a vacuum to suck them up.
To keep them from entering your home, seal any cracks or crevices. Maintain a dry border around the house by removing any excess mulch or other organic material that lays against the house. It is also a good idea to prune any branches that may be touching the house. This is a good idea not just for earwigs, but termites, ants and numerous other "not as beneficial" pests.

If there are large numbers in your garden, trapping them is a better alternative then using a chemical control. Earwigs are night foraging insects so you need to go out at night to determine who is causing the damage. Earwigs are often blamed for damage caused by other night feeders. Earwigs will feed on plants when there is no other source of food, so good organic mulch around your plants will supply food for the earwigs and be good for your plants to boot.

If earwigs are feeding on your plants, place rolled or crumpled newspaper in the area at sunset. They will creep into the folds and crevices of the paper to hide from the daylight and their natural enemies. Referring back to the information provided by "Common-Sense Approaches to Pest Control," the authors suggest you then shake the newspaper into a bucket of soapy water and they will drown.

As I mentioned, there are natural enemies of the earwig. These include Yellow Jackets and a tachinid fly that relies on the earwig for food. Unless levels become intolerable, control is usually not required.

The earwig may be our ‘friend’ and have beneficial qualities, but I still think they are ugly and I still don’t like them.
 

University of Nebraska Extension
Millipedes	Centipede

Millipedes and centipedes are often confused. Millipedes are usually dark colored and have two pairs of legs per body segment. Centipedes, on the other hand, come in many colors and sizes and have only one pair of legs per body segment. Millipedes are generally slow moving creatures that break down dead plant material. They are beneficial to your garden as they feed on the dead plant material and return the nutrients to the soil.

The Common "House" Centipede Centipedes are predacious, feeding on many harmful insects that can damage your landscape plants. They are very fast runners. The fastest are the ones with the fewest number of legs. They will rise up as they run and settle back down when they stop. There are about 3,000 centipede species throughout the world. They all posses a poison gland that opens through their jaws. None of the species are known to be dangerous, although there are species in the southwestern U.S. that can cause a temporary, yet painful bite.

Both millipedes and centipedes can be found hiding under rocks or boards as they hide in the damp soil. They often emerge from compost that is turned over or when digging in the soil. Sometimes you may find a centipede in your house. This is normally a species known as the house centipede. They also exist outdoors and can be found across the U.S. as well as Europe. They have 15 pairs of legs, are about one inch long, and are often found running across the floor or walls. They hunt many insects that may already in the house, such as flies. They don't bite and will help to rid the house of other insect pests.

Before you decide to swat a centipede or millipede with a newspaper or crush it under your foot, remember they are very beneficial to the overall well being of your garden. They are not attractive and do look menacing, but they are an integral part of the ecosystem.

More Than You Really Want To Know About Centipedes and Millipedes

Some people actually keep Millipedes, especially the larger species, as pets!
Read About The "Captive Care and Breeding of the Giant Millipede"

Check Out the Fact Sheet on Millipedes
Courtesy of The Provincial Museum of Alberta

Fire Ants infest many different areas. They can be found in home lawns, school playgrounds, parks, or anywhere they can find an abundance of food. They feed on other insects, oil from seeds, meats, grease, or similar food sources. They liquefy the food and return it to the colony to feed their young and the queen. They forage when temperatures are 70 to 90 degrees and will travel up to 100 feet from their nest.

Besides their fiery sting, Fire Ants will cause other problems. They will construct a mound that can be up to 3 feet or larger. These mounds can disrupt mowing or other types of maintenance practices. If they locate their nests near a house, they will invade it in their search for food. They will disrupt picnics, fishing trips, and many other outdoor activities. They have been known to disrupt the electrical service or air conditioning to a house if they build their nest close by or next to those items. They really personify the term, pest.

Controlling Fire Ants is often a larger task than most homeowners can handle. This is especially true when the infestation is extensive. The worker ants build an extensive complex of underground foraging tunnels. If the mound is disturbed, they will quickly move the queen to another location. The build their lives around the care and protection of the queen and the large number of eggs she lays. A single queen can lay from several hundred to over a thousand eggs per day!

There are numerous products available to control Fire Ants. The approach to their control is two-fold. First, a bait insect control must be applied over the entire area. There are low toxicity and non-chemical products available for this purpose, but they are usually not very effective or take a long time to work, requiring multiple applications. It is best to contact your local cooperative extension service for the products that are labeled for your area. The second step to the control process is to treat the individual mounds. This needs to be done with an approved material in a drench, granule, aerosol, or dust formulation. The key is to apply the material without disturbing the mound. Again, contact your local cooperative extension service for the recommended products for your area.

Fire Ants are a pest problem that has become a part of life in many southern states. Complete eradication is impossible. The goal is to manage their activity and reduce the problems and annoyances associated with their foraging and nest-building.

If Your Child Is Bitten By A Fire Ant

"Despite myths to the contrary, only a very small number of children who have been stung by fire ants are actually allergic to the venom and require desensitization by a pediatric allergist."

Children's Pediatric Primer The Children's Pediatric Primer has a great section on avoiding and treating Fire Ant bites.

That Sure Is A Lot Of Ants

There are many more beneficial insects than there are destructive or injurious ones. There are predacious insects, insects that act as plant pollinators, insects that provide medicinal benefits, insects that feed on dead, organic material, and insects that provide aesthetic benefits. These are just a few of the many benefits that they provide. Many insects may be pests at times, but they can also provide numerous benefits at the same time. A prime example is a spider in a house. It may cause many people to reach for a shoe or newspaper to dispose of it quickly. Spiders are more likely to capture and devour many more injurious insects, such as fleas, bedbugs, and flies, than cause a threat to humans. Another greatly feared insect is the ant. The Argentine Ant is a notorious home invader in the west and south. They also feed on many other pests, such as subterranean termites in and around the same houses. They also recycle dead, organic material to the soil. On one hand they can be a nuisance, but on the other, a great benefit.

Over 400 species of ants inhabit North America

All ants are social creatures, meaning they live in colonies with a queen, workers, and males. Some species also have soldiers to guard and protect the others. It is estimated that there are 12,000 to 14,000 species of ants, but only about half have been identified. In round numbers, it is estimated that over a quadrillion ants exist on the planet. An even more interesting estimate about the insect world is that the number of ants comprises only about 0.1% of the total insect population. Of all the species on the planet, ants are probably the dominant forms of life.

There are over 400 species of ants that inhabit North America. Some are parasitic to other insects-including other ants, and some are plant eaters. Many others are omnivores and feed on both plants and flesh of vertebrates and invertebrates. Their food source may be alive or dead. Most of the species do not cause direct harm to humans, but a few can cause a painful sting, such as the Fire Ant. The Fire Ant lives outdoors and is not a threat to a home's interior. There are also some that do bite and inject a secretion into the wound. These can find their way into a home, but are not aggressive and will not attack.

Many of the home invaders are mainly a nuisance and generally do not cause excessive damage, except for carpenter ants. They will enter a home through cracks or holes in the foundation or around unsealed openings for an outside water spigot or air conditioning line. The best defense against ants is usually prevention. Seal food containers and do not leave food out, uncovered. Seal cracks and outside openings that may allow them to enter. Ant control can be as easy as wiping them up with a damp sponge or as extensive as hiring an exterminator.

Ants are mainly beneficial to our well-being

One of the species that are found in lawns is the Little Black Ant that makes a crater of very fine soil around their nest opening. They rarely enter homes. The damage they may cause to a lawn is minor and usually not worth worrying about. Occasionally, their nest can get large and can cause some aesthetic damage to the lawn. If the area is flooded with water, it will often reduce the populations and the grass will recover. In extreme cases, a chemical insect control can be applied. It is best to consult the local county extension service for regional recommendations.
The other species that concerns many homeowners in the warmer climates of the south is the Fire Ant.

Insects are part of our natural world. They cause more psychological than physical problems. Ants are mainly beneficial to our well-being, even though they can be a nuisance. It is better to try to manage their populations instead of trying to eliminate them entirely.

 

Of the four varieties of mole crickets found in southern areas, only two are considered damaging: the Southern mole cricket and what is known as the Puerto Rican mole cricket (this variety is not really from Puerto Rico). The Southern variety is far more numerous.

They Really Dig Your Lawn

Just one mole cricket can damage several square feet of turf in a single night. They feed on the on the roots of grass and on a number of other organic materials they find in the soil. Subsurface tunnels are very evident, especially in newly seeded or sprigged turf areas. Areas of soil will be thrown up above the turf. These areas scalp easily when mowed. The Southern mole cricket is active except during periods of extreme cold. When exposed, these guys immediately burrow into the soil. The Puerto Rican mole cricket, on the other hand reacts very differently. Much less agitated at being discovered, they'll often lie still and play possum.

Even though the nymphs are active night feeders from the time they hatch, heaviest damage does not appear until the adults are nearly too large to respond to control.

Short Life But Full Of Action

The mole cricket has a one year life cycle which begins with the overwintering female laying an average of 20 eggs in distinct earthen cells. She places up to 5 eggs into each of these cells. Incubation of the eggs takes from 20 to 35 days, depending on the weather. Eggs hatch faster in warmer weather. The young are called nymphs and are merely smaller versions of the adults. The young go through as many as 8 or 10 transitions (or instars) as they mature, but are feeding and causing damage the whole while.

You'll Know You've got 'em, but Which Variety?

It is usually easy to identify mole cricket presence from the visible damage they cause. The insects are about 1 1/2'' long with short, strong forelegs and feet that look like shovels. The head and thorax area looks a lot like that of a crayfish. The bodies are covered with fine, velvety hairs and while the Southern mole cricket is greenish-gray, its Puerto Rican cousin ranges from cream colored to dark brown.

Remember:
• Mole crickets feed on and damage every type of warm season grass.
• A major indication is the presence of raised mounds of soil.
• Mole crickets complete their life cycle in one season.
• If mole crickets are a problem, give us a call.

When Nature Calls can handle any of your lawn insect problems.