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Clean-up Tips and Help | Fall Fertilization | Insects / Disease | Lawn Clippings
Lawn Seeding Best Results |Your Lawn’s Winter Nap |Mulching Tips
Perfect Mowing |Planting Tips | Seeding

Seeding

"Should I seed in the spring, summer, or fall?"
Do the majority of seeding in the fall, regardless of your location. New grass is very tender and will succumb to the heat of summer. Special conditions occur that may necessitate seeding in spring. If the previous damage is extensive or the area is very shady, it is better to seed in the spring. Wait until the weather warms up and the chance of frost has passed. Seed shady areas before the leaves open in the spring to allow sunlight to penetrate to the seeded area. It may require more water to keep the tender plants alive.

"What type of grass do I have?"
Many times, homeowners will buy an inexpensive seed they find at a large pharmacy or discount store. It may or may not be the same type of grass that is in their lawn. If it is not, then the result is a 'patchwork' look of different grasses growing throughout the lawn. If you do not know, find out. Cut out a 3 to 4 inch patch of grass and take it to a reputable garden center or to your local county extension service for identification. If you have a lawn service, ask them to come out to identify the type of grass in your lawn. Many lawn care companies offer seeding as an optional service. They can advise you on the procedures and costs of seeding your lawn. Once you have identified the type of grass in your lawn, purchase a good blend of grasses. It is a good idea to invest in good quality seed. Use more than one variety in the blend. For example, if your lawn is a bluegrass/ryegrass blend, then purchase a mix that is about 70% bluegrass and 30% perennial ryegrass. Try to find a mix that has three or more types of bluegrass and two or more types of perennial ryegrass. The purpose behind this is if one type of bluegrass becomes susceptible to a disease and the others are not, then they will be able to take its place in the lawn.

"How much seed do I need?"
One of the causes for the failure of seed to grow well is planting too much seed in too small an area. When too much seed is placed in a small area, the competition for space is intense. Several naturally occurring seedling blights can kill new plants. If the seed is growing too close together, these seedling blights can kill a newly seeded area overnight. There are different recommendations for each variety of seed, so check with the place where you purchase the seed for the recommended amount. Several small spots may require a pound or less, where a large area of one thousand square feet may require three or more pounds of seed. This may not seem like a lot of seed, but a pound of Kentucky Bluegrass seed has over a million seeds.

"How do I prepare the area?"
If you are seeding small spots or areas, remove the dead grass by raking it. You do not have to remove every single plant. If possible, break up the ground to loosen it. Breaking-up the soil will provide a better site for the seed to grow. Sprinkle a small amount of seed into the spot. Lightly step on the area to affix the seed to the soil. You may wish to sprinkle a little peat moss on the area to hold in moisture. You may also add some bagged topsoil on the spot before seeding, but this can add unknown weed seeds into the area. Larger areas require preparation that is more extensive. Unless you have past experience using machines such as a slit-seeder, core aerator, power rake, or rototiller, it is best to hire an outside service to do the work.

"How often do I water the spots?"
Keep the seeded areas moist for 14 to 21 days to insure good germination. It is better to water the areas in the morning or early afternoon. Light, frequent watering is better than infrequent, heavy watering. Once the seed starts to come up, continue watering until the area has been mown 2 or 3 times. Follow normal watering practices after that point.

"When can I mow the areas?"
Mow the lawn as you normally do. It will not hurt the new plants. Keep foot traffic to a minimum, but an occasional step or two on the new grass will not hurt it.